Oaxaca is where Madre Mezcal begins. It is a vibrant place, generous with color, smoke, and song, and there is more to explore there than any one trip can hold. In appreciation of our time spent on its many roads, we've created a field guide that gathers the places we love to return to. We've arranged it in three parts: the city, the coast, and the in-between. In each, you'll find where we like to drink mezcal, where to wander, and where to rest.

A Note on Madre Palenque Tours:

Our mezcal comes from several palenques, each one family-operated. Out of respect for their space, we don't offer official palenque tours to travelers. If you'd like to see how mezcal is made, a few of the places in this guide welcome visitors and will show you the process from start to finish. 

OAXACA COAST

PLACES TO WANDER:

Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido has evolved considerably & is increasingly known for architecture, design, food, & contemporary cultural projects in addition to its established surfing scene. The town can be busy & tourist-oriented in some areas, while nearby beaches & smaller communities offer a more relaxed atmosphere. Puerto Escondido is also home to some of the region's most significant surf breaks. Experienced surfers can find substantial waves, while several beaches offer more approachable conditions. The local surf community & numerous surf shops make it relatively easy to find current information on conditions & lessons.

Casa Wabi - Carretera Federal Salina Cruz-Santiago Pinotepa Nacional Km 113, 71847 Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Casa Wabi is a major contemporary art & residency project founded by Bosco Sodi. The site combines architecture, sculpture, landscape, artist residencies, & cultural programming & is particularly notable for its architecture by Tadao Ando. Visits require advance reservations.

Cascada La Reforma- A waterfall in the municipality of San Pedro Mixtepec, Oaxaca, inland from Puerto Escondido in southern Mexico. The fall descends a steep cliff into a series of rock pools set in wooded foothills, creating scenic views and natural basins where visitors commonly swim.  roads.

Mazunte

Mazunte is one of the more relaxed coastal communities in the region & has a strong reputation for alternative tourism, wellness, small-scale hospitality, & a creative community. Compared with the busier parts of Puerto Escondido, it offers a slower pace & is well suited to travelers looking for beaches, restaurants, yoga, & a more informal atmosphere.

Huatulco

Huatulco is a more established resort destination & tends to have a stronger family-tourism & resort infrastructure than Mazunte or the smaller coastal communities. It can still be useful as a base for exploring the coast, but travelers seeking a more independent, low-key atmosphere may prefer the smaller towns & beaches between Huatulco & Puerto Escondido.

The Coastal Route

The stretch of coast between Huatulco & Puerto Escondido contains numerous beaches & smaller communities that can be more relaxed than the main resort centers. A road trip along this section of the coast allows for a combination of surfing, swimming, small restaurants, boutique hotels, & less-developed beaches.

Chacahua- A lagoon north of Puerto Escondido, great for surfing.

Agua Blanca- A local beach where they serve fresh oysters on the sand. 

Playa Chipehua- A beautiful, isolated stretch of beach with huge sand dunes. 

PLACES TO REST:

Osa Mariposa- Privada de Cancun S/N, Toluca S/N, Los Tamarindos, 70934 Brisas de Zicatela, Oax., Mexico

Osa Mariposa is a community-focused boutique guest house and gathering space located in the Brisas de Zicatela neighborhood of Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Hotel Escondido - Carretera Federal Km 113, Salina Cruz-Santiago Pinotepa Nacional, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, C.P. 71983.

Hotel Escondido is a design-focused beachfront hotel located near Casa Wabi. It is one of the area's more distinctive architectural properties & is worth considering either as an overnight stay or as part of a design-focused exploration of the coast.

Terrestre- Carretera Federal Km 113, Puerto Salina Cruz, Santiago Pinotepa Nacional, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, C.P. 71983.

Terrestre is a striking contemporary hotel located near Casa Wabi & Hotel Escondido. Its architecture is particularly notable, & the property emphasizes a connection to the surrounding landscape. It is a strong choice for travelers interested in architecture, design, & low-impact hospitality.

Rancho Cerro Largo

Rancho Cerro Largo is located in the hills above the coast near Mazunte & San Agustinillo, with views over the Pacific & an emphasis on ecological accommodation, yoga, & nature. The property describes itself as being situated on a hill overlooking the neighboring communities & beach.

OAXACA CITY:

Tlayudas + Mole

The best way to approach food in Oaxaca is to eat a little bit everywhere. Tlayudas in the street, mole in the markets, snacks from little stalls, and then a few more serious meals at some of the city's great restaurants. Some of the best food is found by following the crowds and stopping wherever something smells good.

Traditional Oaxacan Drinks

Beyond mezcal, Oaxaca has a rich tradition of fermented and non-alcoholic beverages. Tepache and tejate are particularly worthwhile to seek out, while pulque can also be found at certain traditional bars and beverage-focused establishments. These drinks provide a broader perspective on Oaxaca's culinary and agricultural traditions.

MEZCALARIAS AND BARS:

Mezcaloteca- Reforma 506, Col. Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

This is probably the single best recommendation for anyone who wants to understand mezcal. Mezcaloteca is essentially a library of mezcal rather than a normal bar, with an impressive collection of traditional mezcals from different regions & producers. The tastings are educational without feeling like a lecture — they cover the different agaves, regions, production methods, & the communities that actually make the spirit. The best part is that the tasting gives a much better sense of where mezcal comes from & why the different expressions taste so different. Book ahead, as tastings can fill up.

Sur a Norte- C. de Gurrión 100, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Sur a Norte is a restaurant and Mezcal bar with a terrace that overlooks views of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in the center of Oaxaca City. They are currently the only bar where you can find Madre in Oaxaca city. 

Mezcalería Los Amantes- Ignacio Allende 107, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

A great little mezcalería & a good first stop for mezcal. It has a small, atmospheric feel & is much more intimate than some of the larger bars. It's a walk-up bar with a very casual atmosphere. It's a good place to sit down, order something interesting, & let the staff guide the experience.

Mezcalogía- Calle de Manuel García Vigil 509, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Another great mezcal bar. It's small, lively, & usually has music. It tends to attract a mix of locals & travelers, so it can be an easy place to meet people. Good option for a more casual mezcal night.

Sabina Sabe- 5 de Mayo 209, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Sabina Sabe is an Oaxaca institution for cocktails & mezcal. It's sophisticated without feeling stuffy & is equally good for dinner or drinks. A very good place to spend a longer evening rather than simply stopping for one drink.

Archivo Maguey- Avenida José María Morelos 509, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Super fun bar & mezcalería. They have food, good music, & a much more social atmosphere than some of the quieter tasting rooms. This is the place to go when the evening is supposed to become a night out.

Cantina Salón de la Fama- Porfirio Díaz 319, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68101

A proper cantina & one of the best spots in Oaxaca. It's much more classic than the city's newer cocktail bars & is a good place to go for a drink when you want to experience some old-school Mexican cantina energy.

Aloha Oaxaca- Valentín Gómez Farias 220, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca., Mexico

Aloha is a tiki bar in the middle of Oaxaca. Tropical drinks, mezcal, good energy, & a completely different vibe from the traditional mezcalerías. It's a good place to go when the goal is to have a fun night.

Selva- C. Macedonio Alcalá #403-int. 6 . RUTA INDEPENDENCIA . Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez. Mexico

There is a great cocktail bar upstairs here that feels like a bit of a surprise. It's a good place to go when the night calls for cocktails rather than another round of straight mezcal. The upstairs space & location make it a particularly nice place to stop while wandering around the Santo Domingo area.

WHERE TO WANDER:

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca - Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

The museum itself is great, but the old convent is what makes the visit special. It's beautiful & worth taking a slow walk through rather than rushing around trying to see everything. The museum is a good afternoon cultural stop, especially when the heat gets intense.

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca- Reforma Sur s/n, esquina Constitución, Col. Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

The botanical garden is inside the old Santo Domingo complex & is absolutely magical. It showcases the incredible range of plants & landscapes found throughout Oaxaca & gives a really interesting sense of how plants, agriculture, food, medicine, & indigenous culture are connected. They run guided visits rather than allowing people to simply wander around freely, so set up a tour in advance. If possible, book an English-language tour.

Mercado de Abastos / Central de Abastos- Avenida Mercaderes s/n, Central de Abastos, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68090

This is a huge market. It's sprawling, chaotic, colorful, & much more of an everyday local market than some of the smaller markets in central Oaxaca. It's a great place to wander around without much of a plan — look at the produce, dried chiles, chocolate, spices, breads, meats, & prepared food. It's also a good place to eat. Go hungry & give yourself some time to get lost.

Temazcal-

A temazcal is a traditional sweat-lodge ceremony & is a great way to experience Oaxaca's indigenous traditions. 

Casa Oaxaca- Constitución 104-A, Colonia Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

This is one of the classic special-occasion restaurants in Oaxaca. The food is refined Oaxacan cooking, but it still feels connected to the ingredients & traditions of the region. The setting is beautiful, particularly the rooftop, & is a good choice when looking for a proper dinner. It's also on the Michelin Guide, so reservations are a good idea.

Los Danzantes- Macedonio Alcalá 403, Interior 4, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

One of the better-known restaurants in Oaxaca & also a serious mezcal destination. The restaurant itself is beautiful, with an amazing courtyard & great design. The food is elevated Oaxacan cooking, & the mezcal program is excellent.

Pitiona- Allende 114, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Pitiona is chef José Manuel Baños' restaurant. This is one to save for a night when the meal itself is the event.

La Popular- Jesús Carranza 105, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Great, easy, relatively cheap dinner spot & a bit of a local artist hang. It's the kind of place that works well when nobody wants to make dinner into a whole production. Good straightforward food, relaxed atmosphere, & a nice place to start an evening. Bring cash just in case.

Boulenc- Porfirio Díaz 207, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

One of the best places for coffee & breakfast in Oaxaca. Great bread, coffee, breakfast, & casual food.

PLACES TO REST:

El Diablo y la  Luna- Ignacio Comonfort S/N, Colonia Figueroa, 68070 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico

El Diablo y la Luna is a boutique hotel in the very heart of Centro, set apart from the noise with serene city views. 

El Diablo y la Sandia- C. de Los Libres 205, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

El Diablo y la Sandia is a charming, intimate boutique bed and breakfast located at Libres 205 in the historic center of Oaxaca, Mexico. Situated in a quiet area just a short walk from the main hustle of downtown Oaxaca, near the Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo and Santo Domingo church.

Hotel Azul- Mariano Abasolo 313, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

Hotel Azul is probably one of the nicest & well-designed hotels in Oaxaca City. The rooms, courtyard, art, & overall design make it feel very Oaxacan without becoming overly traditional. Even if staying somewhere else, it's worth having a look at the property.

Hotel Sin Nombre- 20 de Noviembre 208, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, C.P. 68000

This beautiful boutique hotel is in a historic building with a great courtyard. The restaurant is also worth checking out, particularly for its vegetable-forward, creative cooking. Even if you're not a vegan or vegetarian, it's worth a visit.

BEYOND OAXACA CITY 

MEZCALARIAS AND BARS:

Gracias a Dios

Gracias a Dios is a mezcal producer with a palenque in Santiago Matatlán. They offer tours & tastings where visitors can see more of the production process & learn about how their mezcal is made. This is worth arranging ahead of time. It's a good way to get outside the city & see the production side of mezcal after visiting some of the tasting rooms in town.

PLACES TO WANDER:

Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz

Miahuatlán is a small city south of Oaxaca along the route toward the Pacific coast & is an important region for mezcal production. It's particularly interesting for travelers interested in exploring mezcal outside the better-known tourist circuit. The area is home to numerous producers & is worth considering as a stop on a road trip toward the coast.

San José del Pacífico

San José del Pacífico is a mountain town located along the road between Oaxaca City & the Pacific coast. It's surrounded by pine forests, dramatic mountain landscapes, cabins, & wellness-oriented retreats. The town is also associated with a long-standing local mushroom culture. Because psychedelic mushrooms remain illegal, travelers should be aware of the legal & personal-safety considerations rather than treating their use as a standard tourist activity.

Teotitlán del Valle

Teotitlán del Valle is one of Oaxaca's most important textile-producing communities & is well known for its handwoven rugs, blankets, & other wool textiles. A visit provides an opportunity to see traditional weaving techniques & meet artisans working within a long-established Zapotec textile tradition. It is an especially worthwhile excursion for anyone interested in craft, design, or indigenous culture.

San Bartolo Coyotepec

The pottery town originally mentioned as the "black & brown clay town" is likely San Bartolo Coyotepec, famous for its distinctive black clay, or barro negro, ceramics. The town is a natural complement to Teotitlán del Valle for travelers interested in Oaxaca's traditional crafts.

Huautla de Jiménez

Huautla de Jiménez is a striking mountain town in northern Oaxaca & is historically associated with María Sabina, the Mazatec healer & cultural figure whose work brought international attention to the region's mushroom traditions. The town is worth visiting for its mountain landscape, Mazatec cultural history, & distinctive atmosphere.

Hierve el Agua- San Lorenzo Albarradas / Roaguía, Oaxaca; approximately 70 km from Oaxaca City.

Hierve el Agua is one of Oaxaca's most spectacular natural sites, known for its enormous petrified travertine formations that resemble waterfalls, mineral springs, & panoramic mountain views. It's an excellent day trip from Oaxaca City & can be combined with other stops in the central valleys or along the mezcal route.

PLACES TO REST:

Refugio Terraza de la Tierra- Carretera Federal Oaxaca-Puerto Ángel Km 128, San José del Pacífico, Oaxaca.

Refugio Terraza de la Tierra is an eco-oriented mountain retreat with cabins, a vegan restaurant, wellness activities, & extensive natural surroundings. The property was designed around a close relationship with the surrounding forest & landscape & is particularly suited to visitors looking for a quieter, nature-focused experience.